Irkutsk

I’ll admit that I didn’t have high expectations for Irkutsk. While it does boast the nickname “the Paris of Siberia” in my mind that probably just meant it was the least desolate part of the region, with a few less gulags perhaps. As such I’d only allowed a day there, much more interested in heading out to Lake Baikal. However once I’d seen a bit of the city I was more than happy with what I found. The city was established in the 1600’s but it came into its own in the late 19^th century. The Decembrists were a group of Russian nobles who wanted serfdom to be abolished and more controls on the Tsar’s power.  After protests in the December of 1825 were unsuccessful the Tsar exiled them to Siberia as punishment. Their wives however elected to follow and bought with them all the refinement and culture of Saint Petersburg high society. They built huge wooden mansions, hosted balls and parties, established schools and libraries and integrated themselves with the locals, the effects of which are still evident today. Two girls I’d met in Mongolia were staying at the same hostel as me so we teamed up and explored the city centre, just a short tram ride away (12 rubbles to the attendant would cover your fare).

Enlarge

I was able to visit my first Russian church and quickly realised that I found churches as tourist attractions very odd indeed. While I was able to appreciate the beautiful architecture and lovingly created icons it was very clear that this (like most of the churches in the guidebook) was a working church. Photography was banned inside and there was a steady stream of Russians coming in to light candles and pray to the icons, it was one of the only times on this trip that I’ve felt like and intruder instead of an observer or participant and since then I’ve stuck to admiring the churches from the outside or only visiting the “touristy” ones (looking at you Saint Basil’s).

Enlarge

We continued on the the Irkutsk Museum of Vintage Motorbikes and Objects of Old Times. It appeared on our tourist map of the city with very little additional information but as it was on route to some of the bigger museums we decided to drop in. What we found was a comprehensive collection of over 40 Soviet motorcycles (as well as mopeds and side-cars), all in working order and looking as good as new. The surrounding shelves were almost as interesting; old cameras, typewriters, sewing machines and military memorabilia sat amongst posters and newspaper clippings that collectively gave an overview of Russian history from Tsarism to the present day, all represented with the objects of everyday life. Communist propaganda posters were pinned beside a poster of Putin on a motorcycle and copies of Pravda with front pages that date to the October Revolution or Victory Day. The owner also treated us to an unexpected accordion show before we left and all up it made for 300 rubles ($6.50) well spent.

We continued on to the Volkonsky House Museum, the house were Maria Volkonskaya the so called ‘Princess of Sibera’ and wife of a one of the Decembrists lived. The house has been meticulously restored and now serves as museum about the Decembrists, their wives and life in Siberea.

At this point our feet were aching and we decided to grab coffee and continue on. I was very sceptical, the only coffee I’d drunk so far had been what I’d made myself with Proud Mary beans I’d brought from home, a small hand grinder and an aeropress. None of the other coffee places I’d seen had looked remotely appetising but I figured that tea should be fine. Imagine my delight when the first place that we found, Engineeria Coffe, was better equipped than most café’s in Melbourne. They offered 14 different preparation methods (everything from pour over to syphon or French press) as well as over 20 different beans and every little coffee knickknack you could need. The guy spoke next to no English but the word for coffee is universal and with a lot of miming I was able to grab some light roast Kenyan to keep me going for another few weeks (it was his favourite blend… I think). The latte I had was far superior to anything I’ve had in the US and the rosetta on top was a nice touch, definitely the last thing I expected to find in the middle of Siberea.

Afterwards we visited the Trubetskoy House Museum which was just around the corner and whilst very similar to the Volkonsky one it focussed much more on life in the labour camps for the Decembrists and others.

All up I’m very glad I stopped here and got to explore the city, even if only for a day.

• Saved: coffee, Russia, Travel