Beijing

Getting off the plane was overwhelming. Not only did China not have Facebook, Google, Instagram or Snapchat but according to my Airbnb host I’d arrived in time for the two hottest days in Beijing this year. It was mid forties most of the time with thick smog over the whole city, a far cry from the chill I’d left behind in Melbourne. None the less, I shouldered my backpack and braved the subway ride to my accommodation.

By the time I’d gotten settled in it was mid afternoon and I headed to the Hutong district, again by subway, now packed with commuters returning home. The Hutongs form a sharp juxtaposition to the skyscrapers  and apartment buildings that populate the rest of Beijing. The single story, grey walled houses are built around a central courtyard and give an insight into Beijing prior to its industrial boom.  I wandered there for a time before making my way to the lake in the centre of the district. Despite the apparent pollution locals were boating, fishing and swimming in the water in order to escape the heat. I opted for a cold beer instead.

The next day I made the trip out to the great wall. As I’m not travelling with a tour group nor staying in a hostel I had to brave Beijing’s public transport system. While there’s a convenient train to Badaling, the closest section of the wall, it’s also the most visited meaning that in the peak of summer you can barely see the wall for the tourists. Instead I opted to visit the further out Mutianyu section. This involved getting the subway to Dongzhimen Bus Terminal (东直门枢纽站) and then the 980 bus (which ran every 5 minutes or so) 5 stops to Miyun 大扬家园 (about an hour and twenty minutes ) and then negotiating with one of the drivers to get me the final part of the trip (a further 40 minutes by car). He spoke no English and I spoke no Chinese but after plenty of miming and pointing at a map he agreed to take me to the wall, wait for a few hours while I explored and then drive me back.

When I got there I was very glad I’d made the extra effort, there was no wait for the chairlift up to the wall and once I was up there it was very quite, at times with no one else in sight. I walked towards watchtower one which was a very steep climb but offered excellent views over the rest of the wall. The highlight however was continuing past the “No Tourists allowed” sign to the un-restored section. Here a dirt path wound between trees, shrubs and piles of rubble. Often the barrier on the side was completely non existent leaving you on the narrow path with impassable plants on one side and a steep drop off on the other. The first watchtower was a fairly easy walk compared to the steep climb that came earlier and the crumbling tower was just as impressive as the perfectly restored ones. If I’d had the time I would have continued on to the next abandoned tower but there was an even steeper climb and my legs were beginning to tire.

Three hours later I was back in Beijing for a quick look around Tiananmen square before heading out to dinner with one of my flatmates and some of his friends, all back from college in America. Noodles followed by drinks at a rooftop bar in the upmarket Soho district made for the perfect last night in Beijing.

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